Relaxing and Remembering

I’m hopeless at selfies, but this is my relaxing Sunday morning eating breakfast on the terrace outside my little apartment. During the week I have breakfast on base, but it’s been good to have a slower start today, and a chance to recharge a little. The Bougainvillea are stunning here and cascade over the gate that’s the entrance to my apartment complex as well as lining the path once I get inside, intertwined with beautiful yellow Hibiscus.

I started writing this at around 11 this morning, then the power went off, so I went out, wandered through the village, sat on the beach for a while and haggled over the price of some little artifacts to take home as souvenirs in a ‘shop’ by the beach. The new arrivals and some of the other volunteers, were going to the Mall, a modern shopping complex about half an hour away, and were intending to eat there, but it’s all fast food and I wanted something local (and didn’t need anything from the supermarket), so I had some food in a place down by the beach, with a wonderful view of the sea, and was treated to a stunning display of drumming, singing and dancing.

I love the way the men are so uninhibited here, dancing at every opportunity whenever they hear music. The man in the football shirt was just a passer-by!

There was the inevitable group of men playing football while I was sitting on the beach – football is huge here, everyone’s an aspiring footballer and most people support British teams. The second picture is the view from where I was eating my lunch.

The power was still off at 4.30 when I got back and I was just about to head over to base at 5.30 to charge my phone when it finally came back on, so I’m keeping everything crossed that it stays on, and the internet holds out long enough for me to finish this update tonight before the start of what’s going to be a busy week.

A Bit of History and Some Nostalgia

I spent yesterday in Accra on a private tour entitled “Explore the Beauty, History and the Culture Of Accra in a Day” and it didn’t disappoint. It was an early start, I had to book one of the GVI drivers to pick me up from here at 7am to get me to a hotel meeting point in Accra for the tour at 9am, and reverse the process at the end of the day, but it all went smoothly. I was expecting to be part of a group, but it was only me, and a wonderful tour guide called Emmanuel, who was very knowledgeable, treated me like his mother, and insisted on taking photos of me at every opportunity!

First stop was Black Star Square, also known as Independence Square. In 1957 Ghana (at that time named the Gold Coast by the ruling British because they mined gold here) was the first African nation to gain independence from colonial rule and Kwame Nkrumah became it’s first Prime Minister. Anyone as old as me will no doubt remember his name! British rule didn’t fully end until 1960, when Ghana became a republic and Nkrumah became its first president. He commissioned the square to be built in 1961 and it’s used for national public gatherings and festivals, including Independence Day celebrations.

The cauldron-type thing that I’m leaning against contains the Eternal Flame of African Liberation, though apparently it’s only lit on special occasions! The symbols on it look oriental, but they’re not. They symbolise hope, freedom, justice and peace. The tall column is a tribute to the “unknown soldier” and honours Ghanaian soldiers who died fighting for their country.

The black star (which is also on the Ghanaian flag) is a symbol of Pan-Africanism and anti-colonialism and is known as the “Lodestar of African Freedom”. It was introduced by Marcus Garvey, another name that’s a blast from the past for me. He was the Jamaican-born leader of the Pan‑Africanism movement who later moved to America and organized the first American Black nationalist movement in the 1920s. I know him from the early days of the civil rights movement and because Bob Marley was influenced by his teachings and used words from his speeches in some of his songs.

Next stop was the W.E.B. Dubois centre, which is housed in what was his home when he lived in Ghana. Dubois was an American writer and civil rights pioneer, the first Black person to earn a PhD from Harvard. He’s regarded as the most important Black protest leader in the US during the first half of the 20th century. He created the National Association for the Advancement of Coloured People (NAACP) in 1909 and wrote hundred of volumes, many of which were on display in the house.

This place was where the nostalgia really grabbed me. It was filled with writings and photos from all the great Black civil rights leaders, all of whom were linked with DuBois through the struggles for freedom and independence. And this was my youth! As a teenager in the 1960s, I cut my guitar teeth on protest songs like We Shall Overcome, We Shall Not be Moved, Go Tell it on the Mountain, Freedom Song, Blowing in the Wind, to name but a few – and all these faces that were so influential in shaping my love of humanity and my social conscience adorned the walls, because they all collaborated with, and learned from, each other. Nelson Mandela, Martin Luther King, Malcom X, and many, many more. It really took me back. Our world is far from perfect, but in this respect, at least, look how far we’ve come.

Next stop was the Osagyefo Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park. Osagyefo actually means “the Redeemer” and the title was given to Nkrumah after he led Ghana to independence. He’s buried here, although he was originally buried somewhere else, but I won’t go into all that now or I’ll be here all night! The construction of this park is significant. All the statues that lead to the big statue of Nkrumah are built on the site of a polo field that was used by the colonial rulers, and which was designated ‘whites-only’. He is pointing because in his independence speech he famously said ““Forward Ever, Backwards Never”. There were loads of old photographs here too, in the museum, where photography wasn’t allowed unfortunately, so more nostalgia!

Our final landmark was a visit to Jamestown. This is one of the most run-down parts of Accra and it’s full of old dilapidated colonial buildings. It used to be called Odododiodoo until the British got their hands on it, built a lighthouse and a fort, which was used to house slaves (and which later became a prison), and changed its name. Emmanuel made me practice saying “Odododiodoo” several times, but I’m sure I can’t remember how to do it it now!

Vultures are significant in Jamestown’s history and can be seen flying around. When slaves died nobody bothered to bury them, their bodies were just thrown into a designated area and left for the vultures to consume. Boxing is significant here too, apparently the area has over 50 boxing gyms, and contains more boxing schools and has produced more world champion boxers than any other in the past 75 years!

And finally…

Team photo taken on Friday before one of the volunteers left (apparently this is done before every departure). So, from left to right (back row): Ebenezer (Ebby-leads the education programmes), Avery (USA volunteer), Kingsley (Ghana Intern), Simen (Norway Intern), Lauren (USA volunteer who left on Friday), Tilde (Danish volunteer), ME!, Jehosephat (known as JJ, Ghana Intern), Joanna (staff), Mary (staff); front row: Anne-Selma (staff, community engagement), Belinda (staff, Ebby’s deputy), Oisin (staff, programme leader).

Be kɛha wɔɔhe (Time for bed)!